it ​Once you have tinted your hair and achieved the glorious hair color of your choice, there will come a time when most of you will have to face a tedious chore…the retouch.

After four to eight weeks of living with the new vibrant color, you probably have gotten used to and maybe even begun to think of it as your own natural shade. Then there it is, down at your scalp, the telltale sign of darker hair or dull or gray hair threatening to make it known to the world that this new persona of yours is not the original. Now you have to entertain the idea of doing it all again.

Since the first one half to one inch of your hair is un-tinted, you can't treat it the same as the tinted hair. If you apply the hair color to the entire length of hair, it can result in uneven color tone and dry, damaged hair. Instead, it is best to perform what we call the “retouch” This is not as easy as the original application but it is rewarding when it comes to the condition of your hair and the evenness of hair color. Following theses instructions will save you time and trouble.

Prepare:
Gather everything you will need.

1. An old shirt for you to wear.
2. An old sheet or some old towels to spread out on the floor. This
   is important since one stray drop of hair color can give you
   a lasting reminder of this session.
3. Plastic or rubber gloves. These usually come in your packaged
   hair color kit.
4. Clips; four to six of either the long “duck bill” kind or the
   “jaws” variety. You can find these in your local variety store.
5. Kitchen timer or a clock that is easy to keep an eye on.

Proceed:

• Divide your hair into four or five sections. If possible control all the hair in each section with a clip, with no ends dangling.
  
• Put on your gloves and mix your color in the applicator bottle provided in the hair color kit.
• Take down one section of your hair. Using the tip of the applicator bottle divide off a thin slice of hair at the top of the section and place a thin ribbon of hair color along the new growth area. With a gloved finger or thumb “moosh” the color into the hair being careful to spread it only on the new growth. Clip this slice of hair up out of the way and divide off another slice.
• Continue in this way throughout each section of hair until you have successfully applied hair color to all of the new growth area.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions in timing. If you have
  resistant or hard to color hair, –sometimes gray hair is resistant—covering it loosely with a plastic bag while processing is helpful.

For faded ends:

• Add a small amount of shampoo or conditioner to your left-over color.
  Wait until the last five minutes of the processing time and apply this mixture to the rest of your hair. This is to refresh the color and is not a necessary step.
• When the timing is complete, shampoo and follow up with a good quality conditioner to preserve the health of your hair.

 

​Are you overwhelmed? Watching too much of the News?  The stress of life causes you become tense and even your scalp becomes tight. That tight scalp inhibits circulation and hinders healthy hair growth.

For years hairdressers have known the best way to relieve stress and to relax the scalp. That’s why every salon visit starts with a shampoo and thorough head massage. This massage increases circulation, stimulates nerve endings, frees knots of muscle tension, relaxes connective tissue and feels great. Professionals are trained in the pattern of manipulation for the most beneficial massage, however it is a simple process to perform on yourself with almost the same relaxing and healthful results.

Using the following technique will get you started on taking better care of your scalp. You can create a massage lotion yourself by using a moisturizing conditioner and adding a few drops of essential oil. Try using lavender oil, chamomile or jasmine for anxiety and stress relief, or use grapefruit to uplift the spirits. Be aware that the essential oils are too strong to be used alone so be sure to mix them with the conditioner.

Rinse your hair with warm water, and then wrap the hair in a warm towel to remove about 50% of the water. Remove the towel, loosen the hair, and apply a massage lotion. 
​
All of the manipulations will be performed with the pads of fingers and under the hair. Use slow, steady movements for enhanced relaxation or vigorous massage for more energy.

Begin by placing both hands at each side of the back of the head, fingers pointed up. Slide the fingers firmly upward until they meet at the top at the head.

Next, repeat the movement, except move the fingers in one-inch rotations as they slide towards the top. Repeat this several times.

Now, place your hands in the front, palms on the forehead, fingers toward the top of the head and repeat the rotating motion while sliding the fingers toward the crown. Repeat this motion several times.

Next, place the fingertips at the sides of the head just above the ears. Use the same circular motion as you move your fingers toward the top of the head. Repeat several times.

Finally, place the fingertips at the temples and massage in slow circular movements.

Finish by firmly running the fingers of both hands from the front hairline to the back. Repeat this several times.

Remove the oils with a gentle shampoo.  Follow with a conditioner to leave both scalp and hair in top condition.
There is no need to wait for a trip to the hair salon for all the therapeutic benefits of a wonderful scalp massage. All you have to do is spend a little time pampering yourself.

​It seems so simple – just cut a straight line on straight hair. Right?
No. Cutting your little girl’s hair or your own hair can be quite a challenge.
Looking closely, you may notice that a person’s head is not made up of straight lines. All of the areas are curved. Cutting straight lines in hair may result in an  un-natural un-even appear appearance.

Trimming bangs: You may call this section the fringe.
Comb all of the long hair – the hair that you do not want to cut – back and clip it out of the way. We do this to avoid cutting hair that is not meant to be part of the bangs. Cutting a few long hairs, by accident, each time you trim bangs, can eventually result in more bangs than you want.

• Divide the bang area into two or three sections. You will cut each section separately. Judge the amount of hair in each section on whether you can see through it. It must be that thin.

 

• You may want to begin the bang area at the eyebrows and angle down slightly from the end of the eyebrow to the hairline so that the effect is curved. Bring down the next section and trim it even with the first. Don’t lift the hair and the shears away from the head. Keep your fingers and the shears close to the forehead.

 

• When all the sections are trimmed, I like to comb all of the bang section straight up and together at the center, allowing shorter hairs to fall away. You will see that there are longer hairs in the center. I trim the longer (keeping it thin) area straight off, thus creating a very slight layering, taking away the blunt effect. Start with a very small amount, not more than ¼ inch. You can always cut more.

The result is natural looking bangs with a soft, not blunt, edge.


The end trim.

• Divide the entire back of her hair into sections. Try to keep your partings even as they go around the curve of the head. If you have a wavy line, straighten it out. Each section should be thin enough to see through. Trying to cut through a section that is too thick will result in uneven ends or a very blunt effect.
• Comb each section smooth and trim the hair, keeping your hands and shears very close to the back, making sure not to lift the hair up to trim it.
• Bring down each section and trim it to match the previous section.
• If you want the hair to cup under slightly, tip the chin down to the chest. Comb hair down smoothly and trim. Again, holding the shears very close to the body. This will cause the hair underneath to be slightly shorter than the hair on top.

Nervous? Start your haircutting career by trimming a small amount at first. It is safer than attempting a major style change. Save that until you are an experienced “pro.”

​Losing hair is scary. You may notice that there are more hairs in the drain when you shower or in your hair brush. Soon you may notice that your hair doesn’t feel as thick when styling it.

When you come to the conclusion that your hair density has changed, you start looking for reasons – anything that might be causing it. There are many factors that can contribute to hair loss. One very common cause is nutritional deficiency with iron deficiency as the most important factor. This is most common in pre-menopausal women between the ages of 35 and 50, when heavy menstruation contributes to iron loss often resulting in anemia.

Even if anemia is not present, low iron can cause problems with hair loss. Iron is an essential part of hemoglobin, a part of the red blood cells that carries oxygen throughout the body. Iron deficiency sometimes triggers hair loss in large quantities but it can also be the cause of subtle, slow thinning over several months or even years. 

Warning:
If you think that you may have hair loss due to iron deficiency, go to a doctor to get the proper tests. Don’t go out and load up on iron supplements. You should be tested by a doctor who can prescribe supplements if needed. Self- medicating can be dangerous. Excess iron in the blood can be harmful. It can build up to toxic levels in some people. Studies have shown that too much iron can lead to increased risk of coronary heart disease and even some cancers.

​Focusing on getting iron from natural sources is the best preventative measure. Always make sure that you have a well rounded diet consisting of all essential nutrients and well as iron rich foods. There are plenty of great sources of natural iron in the food you eat.

Be sure that you include several servings of a variety of the following foods in your diet everyday.

• Dried Fruit – especially figs, dried apricots, prunes, raisons, currants and dried peaches
• Leafy Green vegetables – such as dandelion greens, spinach, arugula, kale, mustard greens, Swiss chard and chicory.
• Beans and lentils
• Red meat
• Liver – both beef and chicken
• Oysters
• Clams
• Shrimp
• Chicken and turkey
• Fish – tuna, halibut
• Whole grains and brown rice
• Soybean flour
• Blackstrap Molasses
• Enriched cereals

When eating foods for their iron content, it is advised that you also include food rich in Vitamin C to aid in the absorption of the iron

​
Each individual hair on your head goes through three phases in its lifetime.

• Anagen is the longest phase.  The hair is growing. It usually last 2 to 3 years. If your hair stays short and never seems to grow--you have a shorter anagen phase. If growing long hair is no problem for you, you have a longer anagen phase.
• Catagen or intermediate phase is the shortest phase. The lower 2/3 of the follicle is destroyed. It's preparing to shed.
• Telogen is the resting or falling out phase.  When the hair has fallen out, the follicle is empty and is preparing to return to the anagen phase.

Parts of the hair and skin are a follows:

• Papilla This is a group of specialized cells that are intertwined with capillaries. This is where a new hair develops.
• Hair Follicle This is a sophisticated receptacle in the scalp from which the hair grows. Rapid cellular activity in the bulb is responsible for providing the cells to make form the hair shaft.
• Sebaceous Gland This is an oil gland in the skin. It is hormone regulated and over production of hormones can form sebaceous 'plugs' that clog the follicles.
• Capillaries   These are small blood vessels that carry oxygen and nutrients to the papilla as well as carry toxins away from the follicle.
• Epidermis    This is the top layer of skin that joins the hair follicle.
• Stratum Corneum  This is the layer of dead skin cells. When you exfoliate, this the layer of skin that you remove. Excess oil and debris can build up at the opening of the hair follicle and cause the follicle to be blocked.

​You may have heard. There’s a current trend in hair care, of not using shampoo. Some women report they haven’t used shampoo in a year or more. Instead, they use only conditioner to massage into the hair and scalp, just as they would shampoo. Then they rinse and style. Proponents of this trend say it is much better for their hair and they notice better condition and texture.

My opinion:

It causes no harm to skip the shampoo and use only conditioner occasionally. Many of us shampoo far too often. Hair doesn’t usually get extremely dirty, unless our body produces an excessive amount of sebum. Skipping the shampoo once in a while allows for more natural oil in the hair as well as an extra layer of conditioner. Women with coarse or naturally curly hair receive benefit because hair is less frizzy.

Warning: Weigh the risks.

Let’s talk about the way hair grows. During the natural growing process of hair, there is a dormant cycle. The hair root has shed its hair shaft. A new hair is on its way but hasn’t shown up yet. It’s still under the skin, inside the follicle. It is during this time that skin cells, styling product, and dirt have a chance to clog the follicle, slowing or preventing new hair growth.

The natural process of shedding skin cells causes a build-up in and around hair follicles. Add to this, mousse, gel, and everyday dust and grime, and you are accumulating layers of follicle clogging materiel.

Shampoo is created to cleanse the scalp. Continual use of only conditioner, without shampoo, will cause layers of build-up, leading to scalp problems and possibly to thinning hair.

One More Thing

As they age, many people have a natural tendency toward thinning hair. Hormones change, and hair growth becomes sluggish. Neglecting the shampoo at this time, will speed up hair loss by allowing oils and shed skin to clog hair follicles.
 
My advice:

If you feel led, skip the shampoo once in a while. Other times, use a good quality shampoo. It will cleanse your hair and scalp while leaving hair in good condition. A cheaper product often leads to dry hair and scalp. 

Use a proven product such as Redken Genius Wash.

Everybody loves curly hair—on your head, not so much their own. Does your very curly hair just get too bouffant? Way too big.  Does it look better when it’s wet than it does dry?

Some of us have very curly hair that is strong and springy. There is no need to scrunch it to make it curl. In fact, scrunching makes it go crazy.

Our very curly hair often requires a lot of control, but we want product that remains soft. We don’t want it to dry hard and crunchy—that just causes more problems when the wind blows.

More product—the right product—keeps the individual curls in their spirals. Without product, the hair tends to fan out- creating undefined volume and frizz.

So, to help control very curly hair:

1. Use enough product to control the curls. Our strong hair needs a firm hand.
2. After your shampoo, don’t comb your hair. Use your fingers to release tangles and pull it into shape.
3. When applying the product:   Don’t turn your head upside down. After you’ve done the above tip, place your product in your hands and rub your hands together to emulsify and distribute the product over your palms and fingers. Then run your fingers through your hair to apply the product. Lightly crush the ends of your hair with the palms of your hands. There is no need to apply the product to the root area of your hair. You want to coat the length of the strands. Remember to use your fingers not a comb.  Leaving the product off the root area, leaves that hair softer and allows it to lie down on the scalp—less fullness in the finished style. 
   
4. Let your hair dry completely before you run your fingers through your hair again to finish your style. Experiment with combinations of products until you find the best fit for your hair.
   

 Suggested products:
Note: Many products produced for curly hair are intended to intensify curl. Those are for people with a little curl or wave in their hair. If you already have very curly hair, you won’t need them.

• Smoothing cream – often used in blow drying and straightening, this will help to control frizz when your hair is allowed to dry naturally.
• Style creams—again often used in blow drying, this will offer more control to curly hair.
• Leave-in conditioner—helps to reduce frizz and dry ends

• Hair oil—used sparingly, this helps to separate curls, reduce frizz and conceal dry ends.