Lynne Waite Chapman Author
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Roots - the Retouch

4/18/2020

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it ​Once you have tinted your hair and achieved the glorious hair color of your choice, there will come a time when most of you will have to face a tedious chore…the retouch.

After four to eight weeks of living with the new vibrant color, you probably have gotten used to and maybe even begun to think of it as your own natural shade. Then there it is, down at your scalp, the telltale sign of darker hair or dull or gray hair threatening to make it known to the world that this new persona of yours is not the original. Now you have to entertain the idea of doing it all again.

Since the first one half to one inch of your hair is un-tinted, you can't treat it the same as the tinted hair. If you apply the hair color to the entire length of hair, it can result in uneven color tone and dry, damaged hair. Instead, it is best to perform what we call the “retouch” This is not as easy as the original application but it is rewarding when it comes to the condition of your hair and the evenness of hair color. Following theses instructions will save you time and trouble.

Prepare:
Gather everything you will need.


  1. An old shirt for you to wear.
  2. An old sheet or some old towels to spread out on the floor. This
    is important since one stray drop of hair color can give you
    a lasting reminder of this session.
  3. Plastic or rubber gloves. These usually come in your packaged
    hair color kit.
  4. Clips; four to six of either the long “duck bill” kind or the
    “jaws” variety. You can find these in your local variety store.
  5. Kitchen timer or a clock that is easy to keep an eye on.


Proceed:


  • Divide your hair into four or five sections. If possible control all the hair in each section with a clip, with no ends dangling.
  • Put on your gloves and mix your color in the applicator bottle provided in the hair color kit.
  • Take down one section of your hair. Using the tip of the applicator bottle divide off a thin slice of hair at the top of the section and place a thin ribbon of hair color along the new growth area. With a gloved finger or thumb “moosh” the color into the hair being careful to spread it only on the new growth. Clip this slice of hair up out of the way and divide off another slice.
  • Continue in this way throughout each section of hair until you have successfully applied hair color to all of the new growth area.
  • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions in timing. If you have
    resistant or hard to color hair, –sometimes gray hair is resistant—covering it loosely with a plastic bag while processing is helpful.

For faded ends:

  • Add a small amount of shampoo or conditioner to your left-over color.
    Wait until the last five minutes of the processing time and apply this mixture to the rest of your hair. This is to refresh the color and is not a necessary step.
  • When the timing is complete, shampoo and follow up with a good quality conditioner to preserve the health of your hair.
 
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Relieve Stressed Out Hair and Scalp

4/18/2020

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​Are you overwhelmed? Watching too much of the News?  The stress of life causes you become tense and even your scalp becomes tight. That tight scalp inhibits circulation and hinders healthy hair growth.

For years hairdressers have known the best way to relieve stress and to relax the scalp. That’s why every salon visit starts with a shampoo and thorough head massage. This massage increases circulation, stimulates nerve endings, frees knots of muscle tension, relaxes connective tissue and feels great. Professionals are trained in the pattern of manipulation for the most beneficial massage, however it is a simple process to perform on yourself with almost the same relaxing and healthful results.

Using the following technique will get you started on taking better care of your scalp. You can create a massage lotion yourself by using a moisturizing conditioner and adding a few drops of essential oil. Try using lavender oil, chamomile or jasmine for anxiety and stress relief, or use grapefruit to uplift the spirits. Be aware that the essential oils are too strong to be used alone so be sure to mix them with the conditioner.

Rinse your hair with warm water, and then wrap the hair in a warm towel to remove about 50% of the water. Remove the towel, loosen the hair, and apply a massage lotion. 
​
All of the manipulations will be performed with the pads of fingers and under the hair. Use slow, steady movements for enhanced relaxation or vigorous massage for more energy.

Begin by placing both hands at each side of the back of the head, fingers pointed up. Slide the fingers firmly upward until they meet at the top at the head.

Next, repeat the movement, except move the fingers in one-inch rotations as they slide towards the top. Repeat this several times.

Now, place your hands in the front, palms on the forehead, fingers toward the top of the head and repeat the rotating motion while sliding the fingers toward the crown. Repeat this motion several times.

Next, place the fingertips at the sides of the head just above the ears. Use the same circular motion as you move your fingers toward the top of the head. Repeat several times.

Finally, place the fingertips at the temples and massage in slow circular movements.

Finish by firmly running the fingers of both hands from the front hairline to the back. Repeat this several times.

Remove the oils with a gentle shampoo.  Follow with a conditioner to leave both scalp and hair in top condition.
There is no need to wait for a trip to the hair salon for all the therapeutic benefits of a wonderful scalp massage. All you have to do is spend a little time pampering yourself.
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Tips for Cutting Bangs and Trimming Ends

4/18/2020

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​It seems so simple – just cut a straight line on straight hair. Right?
No. Cutting your little girl’s hair or your own hair can be quite a challenge.
Looking closely, you may notice that a person’s head is not made up of straight lines. All of the areas are curved. Cutting straight lines in hair may result in an  un-natural un-even appear appearance.

Trimming bangs: You may call this section the fringe.
Comb all of the long hair – the hair that you do not want to cut – back and clip it out of the way. We do this to avoid cutting hair that is not meant to be part of the bangs. Cutting a few long hairs, by accident, each time you trim bangs, can eventually result in more bangs than you want.


  • Divide the bang area into two or three sections. You will cut each section separately. Judge the amount of hair in each section on whether you can see through it. It must be that thin.
 
  • You may want to begin the bang area at the eyebrows and angle down slightly from the end of the eyebrow to the hairline so that the effect is curved. Bring down the next section and trim it even with the first. Don’t lift the hair and the shears away from the head. Keep your fingers and the shears close to the forehead.
 
  • When all the sections are trimmed, I like to comb all of the bang section straight up and together at the center, allowing shorter hairs to fall away. You will see that there are longer hairs in the center. I trim the longer (keeping it thin) area straight off, thus creating a very slight layering, taking away the blunt effect. Start with a very small amount, not more than ¼ inch. You can always cut more.

The result is natural looking bangs with a soft, not blunt, edge.


The end trim.
  • Divide the entire back of her hair into sections. Try to keep your partings even as they go around the curve of the head. If you have a wavy line, straighten it out. Each section should be thin enough to see through. Trying to cut through a section that is too thick will result in uneven ends or a very blunt effect.
  • Comb each section smooth and trim the hair, keeping your hands and shears very close to the back, making sure not to lift the hair up to trim it.
  • Bring down each section and trim it to match the previous section.
  • If you want the hair to cup under slightly, tip the chin down to the chest. Comb hair down smoothly and trim. Again, holding the shears very close to the body. This will cause the hair underneath to be slightly shorter than the hair on top.
Nervous? Start your haircutting career by trimming a small amount at first. It is safer than attempting a major style change. Save that until you are an experienced “pro.”
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Hair Loss from Iron Deficiency

9/4/2017

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​Losing hair is scary. You may notice that there are more hairs in the drain when you shower or in your hair brush. Soon you may notice that your hair doesn’t feel as thick when styling it.

When you come to the conclusion that your hair density has changed, you start looking for reasons – anything that might be causing it. There are many factors that can contribute to hair loss. One very common cause is nutritional deficiency with iron deficiency as the most important factor. This is most common in pre-menopausal women between the ages of 35 and 50, when heavy menstruation contributes to iron loss often resulting in anemia.

Even if anemia is not present, low iron can cause problems with hair loss. Iron is an essential part of hemoglobin, a part of the red blood cells that carries oxygen throughout the body. Iron deficiency sometimes triggers hair loss in large quantities but it can also be the cause of subtle, slow thinning over several months or even years. 

Warning:
If you think that you may have hair loss due to iron deficiency, go to a doctor to get the proper tests. Don’t go out and load up on iron supplements. You should be tested by a doctor who can prescribe supplements if needed. Self- medicating can be dangerous. Excess iron in the blood can be harmful. It can build up to toxic levels in some people. Studies have shown that too much iron can lead to increased risk of coronary heart disease and even some cancers.

​Focusing on getting iron from natural sources is the best preventative measure. Always make sure that you have a well rounded diet consisting of all essential nutrients and well as iron rich foods. There are plenty of great sources of natural iron in the food you eat.

Be sure that you include several servings of a variety of the following foods in your diet everyday.
  • Dried Fruit – especially figs, dried apricots, prunes, raisons, currants and dried peaches
  • Leafy Green vegetables – such as dandelion greens, spinach, arugula, kale, mustard greens, Swiss chard and chicory.
  • Beans and lentils
  • Red meat
  • Liver – both beef and chicken
  • Oysters
  • Clams
  • Shrimp
  • Chicken and turkey
  • Fish – tuna, halibut
  • Whole grains and brown rice
  • Soybean flour
  • Blackstrap Molasses
  • Enriched cereals
When eating foods for their iron content, it is advised that you also include food rich in Vitamin C to aid in the absorption of the iron
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The Life Cycle of a Strand of Hair

9/4/2017

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​
Each individual hair on your head goes through three phases in its lifetime.
  • Anagen is the longest phase.  The hair is growing. It usually last 2 to 3 years. If your hair stays short and never seems to grow--you have a shorter anagen phase. If growing long hair is no problem for you, you have a longer anagen phase.
  • Catagen or intermediate phase is the shortest phase. The lower 2/3 of the follicle is destroyed. It's preparing to shed.
  • Telogen is the resting or falling out phase.  When the hair has fallen out, the follicle is empty and is preparing to return to the anagen phase.

Parts of the hair and skin are a follows:


  • Papilla This is a group of specialized cells that are intertwined with capillaries. This is where a new hair develops.
  • Hair Follicle This is a sophisticated receptacle in the scalp from which the hair grows. Rapid cellular activity in the bulb is responsible for providing the cells to make form the hair shaft.
  • Sebaceous Gland This is an oil gland in the skin. It is hormone regulated and over production of hormones can form sebaceous 'plugs' that clog the follicles.
  • Capillaries   These are small blood vessels that carry oxygen and nutrients to the papilla as well as carry toxins away from the follicle.
  • Epidermis    This is the top layer of skin that joins the hair follicle.
  • Stratum Corneum  This is the layer of dead skin cells. When you exfoliate, this the layer of skin that you remove. Excess oil and debris can build up at the opening of the hair follicle and cause the follicle to be blocked.
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Flat Iron Uses

4/15/2016

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The flat iron, or straightening iron, has long been used to straighten wavy hair. Few people, however, know that it is also very useful on short and even straight hair.

Ranging in width from one to four inches flat irons have a variety of uses. Some irons even have teeth to help grip the hair. You may be surprised to find that one of the following uses applies to your needs.

Use it to straighten long wavy or frizzy hair.
  1. Shampoo and condition your hair with a smoothing or moisturizing product.
  2. Apply a hair gel containing a heat protector and designed to control thick or curly hair. 
  3. Blow-dry your hair as smooth as possible using a large round brush or a paddle brush.
  4. When your hair is completely dry, section off a strand of hair.
    • If your hair is mildly wavy, select a large strand.
    • If your hair is very curly or frizzy, select a smaller strand.

    Clamp the iron at the base of the strand and slowly slide the iron toward the ends. Use a smooth, continuous motion. If you move it too fast, it will not have a straightening effect while sliding it too slowly can overheat the hair causing dryness.

Use the flat iron to shine long or short hair.
  1. Use a shampoo and conditioner designed for your hair type.
  2. Apply hair gel or mousse that contains a heat protector and is designed for your hair texture.
  3. Choose a flat iron sized according to the length of your hair. Wider irons are effective for long hair while a narrow iron is perfect for short hair, even if only an inch or two long.
    Use the flat iron in the same way as above.
    The flat surface of the iron and the heat applied will work with the styling product to create a very sleek and shiny appearance.

Use the flat iron to ‘flip’ hair.
A flat iron is the perfect tool to use to create today’s trendy flip that sticks almost straight out and does not curl over on itself the way the flips of the ‘60s did.
  1. Again, shampoo and condition with a product designed for your hair type.
  2. Apply a strong hair gel or mousse to the area that you want to flip.
  3. When your hair is thoroughly dry, clamp the iron on to the hair and direct it upward in the form of a flip as you slowly pull the iron toward the ends of the hair.
    On very straight hair, heat the hair shaft with the iron and then go over it again immediately, turning the iron up at almost a right angle to form the flip.
    This method is perfect for very short hair.

Use the flat iron to correct a roller set.
If you set your hair with rollers, whether hot rollers or the wet-set variety, you may have experienced the problem of too much curl. 
At this time the flat iron is a valuable tool to smooth out the unwanted bounce. In this instance, apply the iron lightly to the affected area. It will usually take only a small amount of heat and pressure to get rid of extra curl.
So don’t stereotype the flat iron. As you can see it has many uses for all textures of hair and many styles. With practice you will get the look you want.
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Skip the Shampoo ?

3/25/2016

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​You may have heard. There’s a current trend in hair care, of not using shampoo. Some women report they haven’t used shampoo in a year or more. Instead, they use only conditioner to massage into the hair and scalp, just as they would shampoo. Then they rinse and style. Proponents of this trend say it is much better for their hair and they notice better condition and texture.


My opinion:

It causes no harm to skip the shampoo and use only conditioner occasionally. Many of us shampoo far too often. Hair doesn’t usually get extremely dirty, unless our body produces an excessive amount of sebum. Skipping the shampoo once in a while allows for more natural oil in the hair as well as an extra layer of conditioner. Women with coarse or naturally curly hair receive benefit because hair is less frizzy.

Warning: Weigh the risks.

Let’s talk about the way hair grows. During the natural growing process of hair, there is a dormant cycle. The hair root has shed its hair shaft. A new hair is on its way but hasn’t shown up yet. It’s still under the skin, inside the follicle. It is during this time that skin cells, styling product, and dirt have a chance to clog the follicle, slowing or preventing new hair growth.

The natural process of shedding skin cells causes a build-up in and around hair follicles. Add to this, mousse, gel, and everyday dust and grime, and you are accumulating layers of follicle clogging materiel.

Shampoo is created to cleanse the scalp. Continual use of only conditioner, without shampoo, will cause layers of build-up, leading to scalp problems and possibly to thinning hair.

One More Thing

As they age, many people have a natural tendency toward thinning hair. Hormones change, and hair growth becomes sluggish. Neglecting the shampoo at this time, will speed up hair loss by allowing oils and shed skin to clog hair follicles.
 
My advice:

If you feel led, skip the shampoo once in a while. Other times, use a good quality shampoo. It will cleanse your hair and scalp while leaving hair in good condition. A cheaper product often leads to dry hair and scalp. 

Use a proven product such as Redken Genius Wash.
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Help for Really Curly Hair

2/27/2016

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Everybody loves curly hair—on your head, not so much their own. Does your very curly hair just get too bouffant? Way too big.  Does it look better when it’s wet than it does dry?

Some of us have very curly hair that is strong and springy. There is no need to scrunch it to make it curl. In fact, scrunching makes it go crazy.

Our very curly hair often requires a lot of control, but we want product that remains soft. We don’t want it to dry hard and crunchy—that just causes more problems when the wind blows.

More product—the right product—keeps the individual curls in their spirals. Without product, the hair tends to fan out- creating undefined volume and frizz.

So, to help control very curly hair:
  1. Use enough product to control the curls. Our strong hair needs a firm hand.
  2. After your shampoo, don’t comb your hair. Use your fingers to release tangles and pull it into shape.
  3. When applying the product:   Don’t turn your head upside down. After you’ve done the above tip, place your product in your hands and rub your hands together to emulsify and distribute the product over your palms and fingers. Then run your fingers through your hair to apply the product. Lightly crush the ends of your hair with the palms of your hands. There is no need to apply the product to the root area of your hair. You want to coat the length of the strands. Remember to use your fingers not a comb.  Leaving the product off the root area, leaves that hair softer and allows it to lie down on the scalp—less fullness in the finished style. 
  4. Let your hair dry completely before you run your fingers through your hair again to finish your style. Experiment with combinations of products until you find the best fit for your hair.
 Suggested products:
Note: Many products produced for curly hair are intended to intensify curl. Those are for people with a little curl or wave in their hair. If you already have very curly hair, you won’t need them.
  • Smoothing cream – often used in blow drying and straightening, this will help to control frizz when your hair is allowed to dry naturally.
  • Style creams—again often used in blow drying, this will offer more control to curly hair.
  • Leave-in conditioner—helps to reduce frizz and dry ends
  • Hair oil—used sparingly, this helps to separate curls, reduce frizz and conceal dry ends.
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Advice From a Curly Hair Expert

2/24/2016

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Curly haired women are always searching for the perfect blend of products and procedures to tame their curly locks. Many of us have spent numerous hours in the struggle. Hair stylist and curl expert, Quidad is no exception. She has dedicated the past 30 years to unraveling its mysteries. As a result, she has earned the respected title of “The Queen of Curl.” She is a salon owner with a team of stylists, all trained in curl care. She is an educator and the author of “Curl Talk.” 

I relayed some common reader concerns during our interview.
Quidad, on the current trends. 
Quidad says that curly hair is definitely in style right now. “The current trend is funky and fun with lots of movement and texture. Short looks with curls are very in right now… lots of bobs, pixies and chin length cuts. The alternative is long, funky 70s/80s shag.”

Quidad, on going from years of straightening natural curl to a nice frizz-free curly style.
“From constantly straightening the hair, over the years they have pulled the eternal life layer out of the hair. The hair can be brought back to life by repeatedly treating it with a deep conditioning treatment. This will hydrate and feed the hair, putting the life back into it so it’s able to perform.”

As we know, there are many different types of natural curl. Some people have beautiful soft round curls while others have tighter, kinkier curls. I asked Quidad what advice she has on treating our own individual types of curl.
“My rake & shake method is the ultimate way to be able to create your individual cur pattern. Using the rake and shake application and technique you are able to get beautiful, defined curls. You are also able to choose the diameter of the curl by the amount of hair that is between your fingers for the raking movement. For bigger curls, rake a larger section and for smaller curls, rake a smaller section.”

And what is the rake & shake technique?
“Pour styling gel into your palms and separate the hair into a 1 inch or 2 inch section (depending on how large or small you want the curl pattern to be). RAKE through the hair with your fingers vertically and then horizontally to evenly distribute the styling gel. After the raking has been completed, hold the section at the bottom and SHAKE. This allows the hair to bounce back into its natural curl pattern.”

I tried this technique after my next shampoo. It took more time than my previous methods but it was definitely worth the effort. It made a noticeable difference. My curls were rounder and firmer. They stayed in nicely for the second day with very little touch-up needed.


Product Review
I had the privilege of trying out one of Quidad’s line of products, specifically designed for curly hair. Botanical Boost is a spray-in, leave-in conditioner. It contains an impressive list of herbal extracts and proteins. It is suggested for use with wet or dry hair. Used on wet hair, it is conditioning and provides protection from the elements. Used on dry hair, it revives curl and helps to get rid of frizz.
  • I decided to see how it worked as a curl freshener. 
    First try: I styled my hair, using my own products and then let it dry naturally, wearing it curly for the day.
    After sleeping on it, my hair was loose and no longer in individual curls. I sprayed on Botanical Boost. My hair became very curly – even more than Day 1, but remained soft and conditioned.
  • Second try: As an experiment, I sprayed Botanical Boost on a piece of my hair after I had straightened it with a flat iron. As the straight piece of hair dried, it became a nice round curl and felt soft and conditioned.
  • One more try: I used Botanical Boost on fine hair that had a loose natural curl. As I scrunched the hair dry, it produced nice springy curls with no frizzy ends.
  • Each time I used Botanical Boost, the hair produced a soft but firm curl. It did not feel over conditioned or oily.


Quidad – pronounced Wedod – is not called the Queen of Curl for no reason. This woman knows curl.
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For Girls With Curls

2/13/2016

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If you’ve grown up with curly hair, you know the agony. You painstakingly push it into the smooth, shiny style you love—and it rains. Through the day, the humidity entices it into waves where you didn’t want them, frizzes the ends and poofs the whole style to twice as full as you wanted it.
Then, some woman walks up and screeches, “You have curly hair. You are so lucky!”

The sad truth is that ninety percent of curly haired women hate their hair. They spend forty- five minutes blowing it out, smoothing it into shape. And this is every time they shampoo. Then they have to avoid humidity at all cost, or spray it with a super-hold, anti-humidity hairspray. They gaze at fashion models and movie stars, longing for the sleek, shiny, straight hair.
But take heart Curly Girls, things are looking up for up for us. Curly hair is becoming stylish. Natural hair, with all its funky mismatched waves, is trendy.

Learning to love your curls, after years of contempt, isn’t easy. The answer may lie in condition, control and shine. Naturally curly hair almost always lacks hydration. Extra moisturizing shampoo and conditioner is needed to keep it in balance. Look for products with the words moisturizing, hydrating, or smoothing in the name or description.

Styling aids control the volume and keep the curls separated.  I prefer a product that stays soft. A soft gel or styling cream keeps curls separated into ringlets and is more manageable. An anti-frizz serum or smoothing serum should also be applied. There are numerous lines of smoothing serums, frizz control, and curl enhancers available. Shine will come when the condition and control issues are dealt with. Many gels, serums and frizz aids are made to produce extra shine. The market is finally catering to curly haired girls. 

Apply the products evenly, making sure to coat the entire hair shaft. Comb only enough to distribute the product and to remove tangles—or better yet—dump the comb and use only your fingers. Curly hair is at its best air-dried or diffused using an attachment to the dryer, keeping the curls in place. Scrunch only if needed. Many women have curl springy enough to curl without help.  Scrunching is grabbing some hair and pushing the curl in while gently squeezing.

After it is completely dry you may loosen the locks with  fingers or a large pick. Never comb or brush the hair after it's dry. This only increases the volume, separates curl formation, and frizzes the hair. Experimenting will show you just how much fluffing your hair will stand without morphing into a frizzy mess. 

TIP:
Fill a spray bottle with half water and half leave-in conditioner.
Keep the bottle on hand for mornings when you are not able to shampoo. The mixture spray will reactivate the styling aids and freshen your curls. 

Start thinking about the freedom of not having to fight your curl. With proper care and products, curly hair is beautiful. All those straight haired women will be anxious to tell you.  
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    Author

    Lynne Chapman served as Hair Site Editor of BellaOnline.com for fifteen years. She is a professional stylist and colorist of more than forty years.

    Get to know Rarity Peabody by reading The Evelynton Murder Series - beginning with Heart Strings.

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