it Once you have tinted your hair and achieved the glorious hair color of your choice, there will come a time when most of you will have to face a tedious chore…the retouch.
After four to eight weeks of living with the new vibrant color, you probably have gotten used to and maybe even begun to think of it as your own natural shade. Then there it is, down at your scalp, the telltale sign of darker hair or dull or gray hair threatening to make it known to the world that this new persona of yours is not the original. Now you have to entertain the idea of doing it all again.
Since the first one half to one inch of your hair is un-tinted, you can't treat it the same as the tinted hair. If you apply the hair color to the entire length of hair, it can result in uneven color tone and dry, damaged hair. Instead, it is best to perform what we call the “retouch” This is not as easy as the original application but it is rewarding when it comes to the condition of your hair and the evenness of hair color. Following theses instructions will save you time and trouble.
Gather everything you will need.
For faded ends:
Are you overwhelmed? Watching too much of the News? The stress of life causes you become tense and even your scalp becomes tight. That tight scalp inhibits circulation and hinders healthy hair growth.
For years hairdressers have known the best way to relieve stress and to relax the scalp. That’s why every salon visit starts with a shampoo and thorough head massage. This massage increases circulation, stimulates nerve endings, frees knots of muscle tension, relaxes connective tissue and feels great. Professionals are trained in the pattern of manipulation for the most beneficial massage, however it is a simple process to perform on yourself with almost the same relaxing and healthful results.
Using the following technique will get you started on taking better care of your scalp. You can create a massage lotion yourself by using a moisturizing conditioner and adding a few drops of essential oil. Try using lavender oil, chamomile or jasmine for anxiety and stress relief, or use grapefruit to uplift the spirits. Be aware that the essential oils are too strong to be used alone so be sure to mix them with the conditioner.
Rinse your hair with warm water, and then wrap the hair in a warm towel to remove about 50% of the water. Remove the towel, loosen the hair, and apply a massage lotion.
All of the manipulations will be performed with the pads of fingers and under the hair. Use slow, steady movements for enhanced relaxation or vigorous massage for more energy.
Begin by placing both hands at each side of the back of the head, fingers pointed up. Slide the fingers firmly upward until they meet at the top at the head.
Next, repeat the movement, except move the fingers in one-inch rotations as they slide towards the top. Repeat this several times.
Now, place your hands in the front, palms on the forehead, fingers toward the top of the head and repeat the rotating motion while sliding the fingers toward the crown. Repeat this motion several times.
Next, place the fingertips at the sides of the head just above the ears. Use the same circular motion as you move your fingers toward the top of the head. Repeat several times.
Finally, place the fingertips at the temples and massage in slow circular movements.
Finish by firmly running the fingers of both hands from the front hairline to the back. Repeat this several times.
Remove the oils with a gentle shampoo. Follow with a conditioner to leave both scalp and hair in top condition.
There is no need to wait for a trip to the hair salon for all the therapeutic benefits of a wonderful scalp massage. All you have to do is spend a little time pampering yourself.
It seems so simple – just cut a straight line on straight hair. Right?
No. Cutting your little girl’s hair or your own hair can be quite a challenge.
Looking closely, you may notice that a person’s head is not made up of straight lines. All of the areas are curved. Cutting straight lines in hair may result in an un-natural un-even appear appearance.
Trimming bangs: You may call this section the fringe.
Comb all of the long hair – the hair that you do not want to cut – back and clip it out of the way. We do this to avoid cutting hair that is not meant to be part of the bangs. Cutting a few long hairs, by accident, each time you trim bangs, can eventually result in more bangs than you want.
The result is natural looking bangs with a soft, not blunt, edge.
The end trim.
Losing hair is scary. You may notice that there are more hairs in the drain when you shower or in your hair brush. Soon you may notice that your hair doesn’t feel as thick when styling it.
When you come to the conclusion that your hair density has changed, you start looking for reasons – anything that might be causing it. There are many factors that can contribute to hair loss. One very common cause is nutritional deficiency with iron deficiency as the most important factor. This is most common in pre-menopausal women between the ages of 35 and 50, when heavy menstruation contributes to iron loss often resulting in anemia.
Even if anemia is not present, low iron can cause problems with hair loss. Iron is an essential part of hemoglobin, a part of the red blood cells that carries oxygen throughout the body. Iron deficiency sometimes triggers hair loss in large quantities but it can also be the cause of subtle, slow thinning over several months or even years.
If you think that you may have hair loss due to iron deficiency, go to a doctor to get the proper tests. Don’t go out and load up on iron supplements. You should be tested by a doctor who can prescribe supplements if needed. Self- medicating can be dangerous. Excess iron in the blood can be harmful. It can build up to toxic levels in some people. Studies have shown that too much iron can lead to increased risk of coronary heart disease and even some cancers.
Focusing on getting iron from natural sources is the best preventative measure. Always make sure that you have a well rounded diet consisting of all essential nutrients and well as iron rich foods. There are plenty of great sources of natural iron in the food you eat.
Be sure that you include several servings of a variety of the following foods in your diet everyday.
Each individual hair on your head goes through three phases in its lifetime.
Parts of the hair and skin are a follows:
The flat iron, or straightening iron, has long been used to straighten wavy hair. Few people, however, know that it is also very useful on short and even straight hair.
Ranging in width from one to four inches flat irons have a variety of uses. Some irons even have teeth to help grip the hair. You may be surprised to find that one of the following uses applies to your needs.
Use it to straighten long wavy or frizzy hair.
Use the flat iron to shine long or short hair.
Use the flat iron to ‘flip’ hair.
A flat iron is the perfect tool to use to create today’s trendy flip that sticks almost straight out and does not curl over on itself the way the flips of the ‘60s did.
Use the flat iron to correct a roller set.
If you set your hair with rollers, whether hot rollers or the wet-set variety, you may have experienced the problem of too much curl.
At this time the flat iron is a valuable tool to smooth out the unwanted bounce. In this instance, apply the iron lightly to the affected area. It will usually take only a small amount of heat and pressure to get rid of extra curl.
So don’t stereotype the flat iron. As you can see it has many uses for all textures of hair and many styles. With practice you will get the look you want.
You may have heard. There’s a current trend in hair care, of not using shampoo. Some women report they haven’t used shampoo in a year or more. Instead, they use only conditioner to massage into the hair and scalp, just as they would shampoo. Then they rinse and style. Proponents of this trend say it is much better for their hair and they notice better condition and texture.
It causes no harm to skip the shampoo and use only conditioner occasionally. Many of us shampoo far too often. Hair doesn’t usually get extremely dirty, unless our body produces an excessive amount of sebum. Skipping the shampoo once in a while allows for more natural oil in the hair as well as an extra layer of conditioner. Women with coarse or naturally curly hair receive benefit because hair is less frizzy.
Warning: Weigh the risks.
Let’s talk about the way hair grows. During the natural growing process of hair, there is a dormant cycle. The hair root has shed its hair shaft. A new hair is on its way but hasn’t shown up yet. It’s still under the skin, inside the follicle. It is during this time that skin cells, styling product, and dirt have a chance to clog the follicle, slowing or preventing new hair growth.
The natural process of shedding skin cells causes a build-up in and around hair follicles. Add to this, mousse, gel, and everyday dust and grime, and you are accumulating layers of follicle clogging materiel.
Shampoo is created to cleanse the scalp. Continual use of only conditioner, without shampoo, will cause layers of build-up, leading to scalp problems and possibly to thinning hair.
One More Thing
As they age, many people have a natural tendency toward thinning hair. Hormones change, and hair growth becomes sluggish. Neglecting the shampoo at this time, will speed up hair loss by allowing oils and shed skin to clog hair follicles.
If you feel led, skip the shampoo once in a while. Other times, use a good quality shampoo. It will cleanse your hair and scalp while leaving hair in good condition. A cheaper product often leads to dry hair and scalp.
Use a proven product such as Redken Genius Wash.
Everybody loves curly hair—on your head, not so much their own. Does your very curly hair just get too bouffant? Way too big. Does it look better when it’s wet than it does dry?
Some of us have very curly hair that is strong and springy. There is no need to scrunch it to make it curl. In fact, scrunching makes it go crazy.
Our very curly hair often requires a lot of control, but we want product that remains soft. We don’t want it to dry hard and crunchy—that just causes more problems when the wind blows.
More product—the right product—keeps the individual curls in their spirals. Without product, the hair tends to fan out- creating undefined volume and frizz.
So, to help control very curly hair:
Note: Many products produced for curly hair are intended to intensify curl. Those are for people with a little curl or wave in their hair. If you already have very curly hair, you won’t need them.
Curly haired women are always searching for the perfect blend of products and procedures to tame their curly locks. Many of us have spent numerous hours in the struggle. Hair stylist and curl expert, Quidad is no exception. She has dedicated the past 30 years to unraveling its mysteries. As a result, she has earned the respected title of “The Queen of Curl.” She is a salon owner with a team of stylists, all trained in curl care. She is an educator and the author of “Curl Talk.”
I relayed some common reader concerns during our interview.
Quidad, on the current trends.
Quidad says that curly hair is definitely in style right now. “The current trend is funky and fun with lots of movement and texture. Short looks with curls are very in right now… lots of bobs, pixies and chin length cuts. The alternative is long, funky 70s/80s shag.”
Quidad, on going from years of straightening natural curl to a nice frizz-free curly style.
“From constantly straightening the hair, over the years they have pulled the eternal life layer out of the hair. The hair can be brought back to life by repeatedly treating it with a deep conditioning treatment. This will hydrate and feed the hair, putting the life back into it so it’s able to perform.”
As we know, there are many different types of natural curl. Some people have beautiful soft round curls while others have tighter, kinkier curls. I asked Quidad what advice she has on treating our own individual types of curl.
“My rake & shake method is the ultimate way to be able to create your individual cur pattern. Using the rake and shake application and technique you are able to get beautiful, defined curls. You are also able to choose the diameter of the curl by the amount of hair that is between your fingers for the raking movement. For bigger curls, rake a larger section and for smaller curls, rake a smaller section.”
And what is the rake & shake technique?
“Pour styling gel into your palms and separate the hair into a 1 inch or 2 inch section (depending on how large or small you want the curl pattern to be). RAKE through the hair with your fingers vertically and then horizontally to evenly distribute the styling gel. After the raking has been completed, hold the section at the bottom and SHAKE. This allows the hair to bounce back into its natural curl pattern.”
I tried this technique after my next shampoo. It took more time than my previous methods but it was definitely worth the effort. It made a noticeable difference. My curls were rounder and firmer. They stayed in nicely for the second day with very little touch-up needed.
I had the privilege of trying out one of Quidad’s line of products, specifically designed for curly hair. Botanical Boost is a spray-in, leave-in conditioner. It contains an impressive list of herbal extracts and proteins. It is suggested for use with wet or dry hair. Used on wet hair, it is conditioning and provides protection from the elements. Used on dry hair, it revives curl and helps to get rid of frizz.
Quidad – pronounced Wedod – is not called the Queen of Curl for no reason. This woman knows curl.
If you’ve grown up with curly hair, you know the agony. You painstakingly push it into the smooth, shiny style you love—and it rains. Through the day, the humidity entices it into waves where you didn’t want them, frizzes the ends and poofs the whole style to twice as full as you wanted it.
Then, some woman walks up and screeches, “You have curly hair. You are so lucky!”
The sad truth is that ninety percent of curly haired women hate their hair. They spend forty- five minutes blowing it out, smoothing it into shape. And this is every time they shampoo. Then they have to avoid humidity at all cost, or spray it with a super-hold, anti-humidity hairspray. They gaze at fashion models and movie stars, longing for the sleek, shiny, straight hair.
But take heart Curly Girls, things are looking up for up for us. Curly hair is becoming stylish. Natural hair, with all its funky mismatched waves, is trendy.
Learning to love your curls, after years of contempt, isn’t easy. The answer may lie in condition, control and shine. Naturally curly hair almost always lacks hydration. Extra moisturizing shampoo and conditioner is needed to keep it in balance. Look for products with the words moisturizing, hydrating, or smoothing in the name or description.
Styling aids control the volume and keep the curls separated. I prefer a product that stays soft. A soft gel or styling cream keeps curls separated into ringlets and is more manageable. An anti-frizz serum or smoothing serum should also be applied. There are numerous lines of smoothing serums, frizz control, and curl enhancers available. Shine will come when the condition and control issues are dealt with. Many gels, serums and frizz aids are made to produce extra shine. The market is finally catering to curly haired girls.
Apply the products evenly, making sure to coat the entire hair shaft. Comb only enough to distribute the product and to remove tangles—or better yet—dump the comb and use only your fingers. Curly hair is at its best air-dried or diffused using an attachment to the dryer, keeping the curls in place. Scrunch only if needed. Many women have curl springy enough to curl without help. Scrunching is grabbing some hair and pushing the curl in while gently squeezing.
After it is completely dry you may loosen the locks with fingers or a large pick. Never comb or brush the hair after it's dry. This only increases the volume, separates curl formation, and frizzes the hair. Experimenting will show you just how much fluffing your hair will stand without morphing into a frizzy mess.
Fill a spray bottle with half water and half leave-in conditioner.
Keep the bottle on hand for mornings when you are not able to shampoo. The mixture spray will reactivate the styling aids and freshen your curls.
Start thinking about the freedom of not having to fight your curl. With proper care and products, curly hair is beautiful. All those straight haired women will be anxious to tell you.
Lynne Chapman served as Hair Site Editor of BellaOnline.com for fifteen years. She is a professional stylist and colorist of more than forty years.